Casting and the overhead Cast

An Article by Mark Roberts
A qualified coach in both single and double handed rods.


The cast of the single handed rod is one which will differ from one angler to another.

What may be right for you may not be right for another.
The same can be said of the type of action of the rod being used.
Many now want to buy the stiffer more fast or tip actioned rods without really understanding how they work.

Ask yourself do I keep getting a tailing loop on my forward cast? This is where the hook flips up and catches the line?
If the answer is yes then you are mis-timing the power stroke on the forward cast.
It can be likened to the wheel spin on a sports car from standing start when all the power is applied too quickly instead of building the speed up efficiently. 

When  practising to cast I would always put a small tag of wool in place of the fly for safety.

Now let me explain the cast and break it down for you.

Mechanics

To be able to cast efficiently it must be understood that the rod is a spring.

The spring is compressed or loaded and allows the energy that it has in that compression or load to be transferred to the line allowing it to pass through the air and unfold.

Strength or force does not compress or load the rod but the proper application of power at the right time which allows the rod to compress or load efficiently together with good use of the weight of the line.

It must then follow that the rod and line must be balanced for any cast to be efficient.

That is the reason why good casting appears effortless and smooth because the rod or spring has been used efficiently with an appropriately balanced line.

Overhead cast

 The overhead cast is used when the area immediately behind the caster is free from obstructions and there is free passage for both rod and line both behind and in front of the caster.

The cast can be broken down to a number of different stages and each one leads to the next.

Firstly draw some 30 feet of line off the reel and by pointing the rod tip to the water pull the line through the rod tip by drawing the rod tip to the left then right allowing the fly line to grip the water surface and be pulled through that rod tip.

When sufficient coils of line are lying on the waters surface you may extend the line forward by roll casting or flicking it forward so that it is extended.

Now stand in a position that feels comfortable with your right foot slightly forward of your left with the feet place about a shoulder width apart. If left handed you would put your left foot slightly forward.

Be content that you are comfortable in your stance and make any adjustment that is necessary.

Now grip the rod handle in the right hand with your thumb on the top of the handle extending forward.
Your thumb should be placed at the end of the handle. Now grip the handle underneath with a firm but relaxed grip with the other fingers of the right hand.

The grip should be similar to that used to turn a window handle.

Now with your right elbow kept close to your side point the rod tip to the water surface and touch it with the rod tip. This will ensure that you start the cast at the surface efficiently.

The rod tip is now lifted slowly initially so that the line may be unstuck from the waters surface film.
 
 This movement starts at the elbow and not the wrist as the rod should be an extension of the arm from the elbow.
 
As the rod tip is lifted the line will continue to be lifted off the water surface.

At the point when the last two or three feet of the leader is still upon the water the rod tip will continue to accelerate.

This movement will allow the rod to compress or load.
Now continue to increase the acceleration to a position where the rod tip hits the 11 o clock/ 12 o clock position and stop.

It is worth remembering that the intention is to cast the line up behind the head as opposed to back behind the head or back.

The thumb of your right hand which is holding the rod should now be immediately in front of the right eye.

The stop now allows the line to be powered back behind the caster by the transfer of energy from the rod tip to the line. This is commonly referred to as the ‘pause’.

Now re apply compression to the rod tip by pressing your thumb forward and moving the elbow forward.
The weight of the line will now compress or load the rod.

Stop any movement forward at the 10 o clock point and allow the fly line to unfurl forward as the fly line extends to its limit then bring the rod tip downward with the line s allowing the fly and line to fall gently to the water surface.

To increase distance then spare coils of line can be held in the left hand which may be ‘shot’ at the point where the fly line is travelling forward and the rod tip has been stopped at the 10 o clock position.

Common Faults 
The most common faults with this cast are that the caster will cock the wrist which means that they will cast with the wrist joint breaking open as opposed to casting from the elbow. The effect of wrist break is to force the line down and behind the caster.

Another common fault is a tailing loop which is where the fly line unfolds and the fly flicks from under the loop and catches the fly line.
This is caused by missed place power in the forward stroke and is often common with strongly built individuals who over power. This can often be rectified by reducing power in the forward cast.

If the wind is coming from the right side of the caster and they are casting right handed then the cast should be made form over the left shoulder.
This means is that the casting arm is brought across the chest at an angle.
The thumb of the casting hand should be at a point beside the left ear at the pause point of the cast.

It is necessary to make this adjustment so that injury can be avoided from the hook or line in such conditions.

If the wind should be blowing directly into the face of the caster then adjustment must be made on the forward cast by lowering the rod tip towards the water surface enabling the line to cut through the wind resistance and allowing the loop to unfurl efficiently. 

I hope this explaination has helped. If you have any further questions or have a casting fault that you do not know the cause of ask on the web site in the forum.

Good casting.