This is a great summer fly and can be fished either as a single or double for salmon or Sewin.

The dressing described below is the full original dressing.

Many bought Ble Charms no longer sport either the teal shoulders nor the Goldern Pheasant Crest feather Topping. The choice is yours. Remember it is all about your confidence in your flies.

It is often fished on a floating line or an intermidiate. The sample shown is tied on a Ken Sawada Salmon Double size 8 but any salmon double will be just as good provided it is strong enough.

You may wish to tie it short on a single for those irritating short pulls from nipping sewin at the height of summer.

Materials:

Hook: Single or Doubles to suit water conditions i.e. from 14's to 6's

Silk:  Black

Tag:  Silver oval (fine)

Butt: Yellow silk Floss

Tail: Goldern Pheasant Crest feather

Body: Black floss

Throat Hackle: Bright blue cock tied as a beard

Wing: Bronze Mallard (folded)

Shoulders:  Teal flank

Topping: Golden Pheasant Crest Feather.

I have started this with white uni nylon as I do not like a dark silk tying thread under a bright coloured tag as when it is wet it will lose all that brightness and colour.

Firstly attach the silk tying thread and wind it down towards the bend.

Now attach your fine oval tinsel. (In smaller sizes of fly this will also be used for the rib but as they get bigger so should the body ribbing material).

Bind down the oval tinsel and test it to make sure that it won't pull out when you apply pressure. The tinsel tag on a double is wound down towards the hook bend. It is different with a single hook. After 4 turns bring the insel back through inbetween the double hook bends and tie down eith the silk.

Remove the waste. Now wind the white tying thread forward towards the eye leaving 3 to 4 mm of space from the tag to the thread. At this point tie in the yellow floss silk to form the butt.

To ensure that the butt floss does not pull out trap it with turns of the tying thread. these can be unwound once the silk floss has been wound onto the hook shank.

The floss silk is wound down to the tag and then back to the tying silk in touching turns.

Choose a suitably sized golden pheasant crest feather which should be tied in concave down. The point of the this tail should not extend to far behing the hook shank. About twice the length of the gape should be enough.

Remove any waste and tie in the ribbing material i.e. the fine oval silver tinsel. As I have used white tying silk up to this point I take it to the head od the fly and tie it off.

 I now attach the black floss sik to form the body. I have used 210 denier uni silk here in this fly because I find it quicker and easily managed when it is still on the bobbin.

Once the body is formed wind on the ribbing in even open turns along the body. You only want between 4 and 5 turns of this oval. Remove the waste and relace the body floss with 8/0 or 6/0 black tying silk.

Take a blue cock hackle and remove the webby fluff from the bottom and cuta peice form the base with a small amount of stem showing and with 12 or more fibres either side of it.

Invert your vice if you can and tie in this cock hackle with two turns of tying silk. It should be tied in with the concave side against the underneath of the hook shank.

Keep hold of the bobbin with your left hand and maintaining a slight pressure pull on the stem so the hackle moves foreeward over the eye. What you now want to do is bring the hackle points in line with the hook point or just over.

Pull tight on the bobbin and the fibres will spring out. You do not want them to lie against the body but to give life to the fly when in the water. Make a turn or two of the tying silk over the hackle fibres and one infront of it and then remove the waste.

Now choice a good dark Bronze Mallard feather and remove the waste from the stem.

Now draw back the fibre on the lower part of about an ince of fibres so the points match. You do this by stoking the fibres gently back.

When this is done hold the fibres in between the left fore finger and thumb and cut them away from the stem.

We are now going to form a folded or rolled wing.

The fibres should be held with the good side face down. Fold a quater of the fibre width on the right side into the centre of the fibres as shown below.

  

Now fold in the left side.

Now fold the whole lot in half and you will have your rolled feather complete.

Now hold the completed rolled feather in  between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand over the hook shank. The points of the wing should meet with the point of the tail.

Now with a pinch and loop technique secure the wing to the top of the hook shank. Ensure that when tying this on a double hook that the rolled feather is in the centre of the shank and not either on one side or the other.

A reminder of the pinch and loop technique is to take the tying thread up on the near side of the wing and grasp it(the pinch)in between thumb and forefinger(which is also holding the rolled wing). Bring the tying thread over the material forming the loop and bring it under neath the hook shank. Pull the loose loop tight by drawing the bobbin upwards above the hook shank. The reason for this is to encourage the wing fibres to be drawn together on top of each other and not to lean or bend to one side or the other of the hook shank.

It is now time to remove the wastewith a pair of sharp scissors.

If you wish you can just form a head and present this as the finished fly as many do but to go further as the original pattern you need to select a teal flank feather and remove the waste from the stem.

You have the option of either taking a slip from a pair of these feathers or as I have done in this I have folded asection of feather over the formed wing.

You do this by following part of the proceedure explained in forming the folded wing of the bronze mallard feather up to the point before you make any folds.

In stead of effectively making a double skin of fibres you only want a single skin so you fold the feather in half once and hold it over the wing already tied in. Now again using the pinch and loop technique add the shoulders to the fly remembering that the points of the teal feather do not extend beyound half the length of the bronze mallard feather.

Now add a topping of a golden pheasant crest feather ensuring that the tip meets with the tip of the tail feather.

Remove any waste and form the head of the fly. Whip finish and varnish.

Jobs done.